Sunday, March 29, 2009

Italy Day 2 - Parmigiano Reggiano!

We awoke in Parma and found ourselves at Carlo Roberto Bertozzi's house, of Bertozzi Parmigiano Reggiano. The company was founded in Parma, Italy in 1901 by Abele Bertozzi. As a pioneer in the food industry, he transformed the production and marketing of Parmigiano-Reggiano from a purely artisan process with local distribution to a business able to dominate in the national marketplace. This is Paolo. He has been making parmigiano reggiano for years alongside his mother.
The whole milk of the morning milking is mixed with the naturally skimmed milk (it is left in large shallow tanks to allow the cream to separate) of the previous evening's milking, resulting in a part skim mixture. The milk is pumped into copper-lined vats (copper heats and cools quickly). Starter whey is added, and the temperature is raised to 33-35C.
The curd is then broken up mechanically (spinitura in Italian) into small pieces (around the size of rice grains). The temperature is then raised to 55 °C with careful control by the cheese-maker. The curd is left to settle for 45-60 minutes. The compacted curd is collected in a piece of muslin before being divided in two and placed in moulds. There are 1100 L of milk per vat, producing two cheeses each. The curd making up each wheel at this point weighs around 45 kg (100 lb). The remaining whey in the vat was traditionally used to feed the pigs from which "Prosciutto di Parma" is produced.
The cheese is put into a stainless steel round form that is pulled tight with a spring powered buckle so the cheese retains its wheel shape. After a day or two, the buckle is released and a plastic belt imprinted numerous times with the Parmigiano-Reggiano name, the plant's number, and month and year of production is put around the cheese and the metal form is buckled tight again. The imprints take hold on the rind of the cheese in about a day and the wheel is then put into a brine bath to absorb salt for 20-25 days. After brining, the wheels are then transferred to the aging rooms in the plant for 12 months. Each cheese is placed on wooden shelves that can be 24 cheeses high by 90 cheeses long or about 4,000 total wheels per aisle. Each cheese and the shelf underneath it is then cleaned manually or robotically every 7 days.

It was a gorgeous process. The smell was absolutely overpowering. We snacked on cheese all day, and went on our way to our next stop: Parmacotto and prosciutto di Parma.

Ciao!


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